Perfume Pagoda Day Trip: An Honest Review

Picture this: you are in Hanoi, maybe enjoying some pho or trying to dodge a million motorbikes. You know, that kind of thing. And perhaps you’re wondering if there’s something different to see outside the usual city attractions. If that’s the case, then the Perfume Pagoda day trip may come up in your search. It did for me. Now, before you decide to spend a whole day on this excursion, let me tell you all about it. This way you’ll be able to find out if it’s a fit for you, hopefully.

What’s the Deal with the Perfume Pagoda, Basically?

The Perfume Pagoda, or Chua Huong, is that type of place that’s not just one pagoda, but rather a collection of temples and religious sites nestled in the mountains. Seems appropriate, right? People visit it for various reasons, quite often involving spiritual pilgrimage. Very often people will come to seek blessings and good fortune. For many Vietnamese people, so I learned, this is a trip they try to make at least once in their lives.

The Boat Ride: Scenic or Just Long, You Decide

The day started with a drive from Hanoi, likely like yours will. I believe it took around two hours, possibly even a bit longer. The interesting part of the journey starts with a boat ride on the Yen Stream, more or less a winding river snaking through the landscape. The views? Well, they could be really lovely, depending on the season. When I visited, the water was a brown color. Apparently, that’s not unusual. Farmers also use the waterway, so you’ll likely see women in their signature headwear doing their business on the river banks.

The boat ride itself lasted about an hour, very possibly feeling longer depending on your level of enthusiasm. The boats are rowed by locals. To be fair, I was feeling a little bad for the person doing all the rowing, especially when our boat was full. Pro-tip: bring snacks for the boat trip. Unless you want to purchase from your boat rower. Seems obvious enough, does it not?

The Hike: Are You Ready to Climb?

Okay, so right after your relaxing, or perhaps not-so-relaxing, boat ride, you will likely arrive at the base of the mountain. Now you get to hike. Maybe I need to re-phrase; you get to either hike *or* take a cable car. I chose to hike up to the main cave, Huong Tich Cave. It really seemed the better option, to be honest.

The path is mostly stairs. Steps and steps and steps. And more steps. It goes on and on, that is, unless you are a regular mountain climber. On the other hand, if you aren’t a regular hiker (like me!), just be prepared to take it slow. You’ll notice many locals selling drinks and snacks along the way, so you could replenish your snacks, perhaps. Plus, you get to take in the jungle-y scenery as you puff your way up.

For those deciding on the cable car: good on ya. However, do realize that you’ll still have a bit of climbing to do from the cable car station to reach the actual cave. Very possibly one of the more sacred parts.

Huong Tich Cave: The Main Attraction, Pretty Much

Finally. You arrived at the Huong Tich Cave, frequently what people talk about when they mention the Perfume Pagoda. What’s the deal here? Well, it is a cave filled with statues, carvings, and altars. The atmosphere could be called reverent. Though it’s often packed with tourists and pilgrims, so it might not exactly be a peaceful vibe. Yet, the incense, the lighting, and the sheer number of people there create a very unique ambiance. Seems unique enough to make note of it, at any rate.

I found the stalactites and stalagmites particularly noteworthy, since people rub them for good luck, of course. It’s all part of the experience, arguably.

Food and Drink: What to Expect, basically

Expect to find places to eat along the way and near the main temple area. You can probably expect mostly local eats. I recall seeing the usual Vietnamese fare like pho and spring rolls, likely at prices that are slightly higher than in Hanoi. And there are drinks aplenty available too, basically to keep you hydrated during that climb. It could get steamy, depending.

Is the Perfume Pagoda Day Trip Worth It? In short, it depends

Now for the big question. Did I like it? Maybe a bit. Was it the highlight of my Vietnam trip? Truthfully, not so much. The boat ride was longish and the water wasn’t attractive. Plus there were loads of tourists and the persistent vendors can wear you out. But that hike, and eventually seeing the cave itself, did feel rewarding. You might feel this, too, in the end. So the question is are you willing to trade a day in Hanoi for this very specific experience?

Recommendations if you’re heading there

• Wear comfortable shoes; you’ll be doing a lot of walking and climbing steps, as you likely suspected.
• Bring water and snacks. Always a good idea, basically.
• Be prepared for crowds, particularly during peak season, or the weekends, too, for that matter.
• Bargain when you buy souvenirs. If you dare!
• Consider the cable car if you’re not into hiking. In this case it makes the trip a bit shorter.

At the end of the day, the Perfume Pagoda is, maybe, one of those things you should see once. But you’ll want to manage your expectations so you won’t find yourself a bit disappointed. It has spiritual and cultural significance, seemingly. Plus, it gives you a chance to get out of the city for a bit. If those are important to you, you can have yourself a worthwhile trip. It did allow for me to feel as if I experienced the country better. So, perhaps you’ll feel similarly.

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